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Champion80

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core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Interests
    Baseball, working out, learning to invest
  • Occupation
    Nationwide Insurance Agent

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    Los Angeles, Ca

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  1. Thanks Isislc, yeah that is what I figured, I guess all I can hope for at this point is that it stays on my TU and EX reports, this way all scores do not take a dip just yet. I am about to start looking for my home loan next week...so after that, it can fall off if it likes, I have plenty of credit cards with pretty good limits. The best part is, most if not all of my credit education and progress has come from CIF and the people like you that take your time to be helpful. Thanks again, proof that you can change people starts here!!
  2. Wow guys, thanks for the info there, that clears some confusion on my part. I try and look out for everyone invovled in every situation, I will read up more on the laws to make sure the referrals I pay out are compliant as well. Of course as an Insurance agent, I certainly do not make much on one Home policy!!! So it is more of a numbers game for me. And on this side the only big no no I am well aware and have not practiced the idea of having my referee's tell their clients they HAVE to go with us. The great part about the Insurance Company I represent their rates are great in CA, I can quote against five other companies and I we come out on top most of time, without doubting the quality of the company my clients are going with, so it has been a win win situation. Thanks Again Charles, and Oompaloompa. BTW, Oomp, you live in Nor Cal? I grew up in Sac
  3. They were one of my 3 builder cards I grabbed when I was just starting to be responsible, they will increase the limit over time, you can even pay them a fee to increase sometimes if you want to. But they do report to all 3, I had no problems. Only kickers are the $7.50 monthly fee that is charged every month to make up the annual fee. But if you are not getting approved by others, a great place to start. Also I would recc trying with the BofA 99/500 secured card. If approved, you only have to come up with $99. they give you $500 and if you stay straight for one full year, they will take off the secured, send your money back, and jump up the limit.
  4. Not sure about the inquiries, did you apply at the branch and then apply again online? You may want to call the cards approval department and speak to them. I can tell you that card can become one of your keepers, after my first year..never late, they took off secured status, bumped the limit to $5000, 6 months later up to I think $7500 or $8000...now I am at $17,000 limit. I get offers for Balance transfers at 3.99 for 12 months. Good luck with the card.
  5. Got a general question, thought maybe someone has had a similar experience. Back in my disputing days EQ split my file and I ended up with 2 of every tradeline, that seems to have been fixed for the most part now. I just pulled my CR and my EQ is 11 Points Lower than EX, 7 lower than TU. I was not sure why at first, then I saw that one of my oldest good TL, about 10 years old is not reporting on EQ. This is a closed account with wells fargo, and I think what may have happen was the average length of credit history was lowered by this. My scores are not bad, but teetering close to 700 so I am wondering if I should try and fix it. I know that I could give myself more problems if I try and call wells fargo, they may accidently decide the think I am disputing the account, they they will delete it because it is old I owe them nothing, and then delete on all CR's I say this because I had a similar instance with another bank on a limit that was showing on a closed card, the highest balance was higher than the limit, and I did not want my report reflecting this small discrepancy, come to find out, they deleted the TL from my CR's!!! Anyway, any input would be great. Thanks.
  6. Good info everyone. Looks like there it may be worth looking into. I am going to contact some of these programs on Monday. I have not gotten pre-approved yet, I am getting my paperwork together now. I am probably going to go FHA and 3% down, which I do have. I am hoping I can get all closing costs taken care of. The home price is going to end up somewhere around $225,000 and I was hoping to keep the money I saved so I have at least 6 months of emergency cushion in the bank. Those of you that did successfully get assistance, how long did it take to get approved? I do see for the most part once you are approved, they wire the money near closing. But my apartment lease is up on June 30th so I was hoping to close by that day. That means I need to get my loan pre-approved, make my offer and hopefully start escrow within a week or so. What hurdles getting assistance my I run into, and do you have any advice to handle them based on your experience. Any thoughts are appreciated,
  7. Yes, thanks for bringing that up, that is important, however, in our instance we were working together to help our clients, I only work with people that have high integrity. There is no funny business going on, I know there are those out there that can some how swallow the pill of taking advantage of others. But I am the polar opposite. But As far as I have understood the law you are speaking of, if I am helping him do is job,and referring clients to him and helping him get the loans completed, then it is ok for him to pay me some of his earnings...?? Now in regards to my home, I can see where it might be a problem? But again, if someone that works with, or is a paid employee for example for a loan company and they have their home loan done there and they do most of the work, can they not get paid a commission on their own loan? Thanks Charles.
  8. Whats happening, I had a close friend that left the country for a little while, I am an Insurance agent and he and I worked together a lot of referrals in the last couple years, so I am used to kickbacks. I am looking for a new partner for now, and I am going to buy a home myself very soon. I am hoping to close on or around 07/01/2008. Thanks.
  9. Yeah...you are treading a thin line there, if there are no records and you now have a new mortgage...this one may be deleted if you dispute with the CB's as innacurate and ask to have it changed. They may try to verify with the mortgage company, then if they do not, they may delete the file entirely, maybe someone else can chime in on this one as well that had this experience.. I do not think that late, especially if that is all you have it effecting you all that much anyway, so I say not worth the downside consequences..thats my vote!! good luck
  10. I do agree the PFD does not always work, this will always depend on the CA, like those that are assigned by the debtor cannot make this agreement usually because they are just assigned to collect...however, I did get the success of calling and paying the smaller CO's I had when they recalled from the assigned CA, then sold the debt to another..keep in mind I am not saying this will work for all CO's. I can tell you that if I was recording the other day when I called on the CO's I mentioned at the top of the thread I could have a potential locked violation. This particular CO is from an electric bill, they assigned the CA, so the electric company is reporting..not the CA, they both cannot report on one debt as far as I have understood. In any case, after I grilled them and said, listen, I am calling you, I am answering your calls, this shows I am not trying to avoid the debt..I would like to resolve this...but my terms are I want a letter stating it will be deleted..before he got me on the phone with a supervisor, he did tell me that if I just paid it and disputed it with the CB's it would come off....that is a NO NO .. but I did not record the call, and since they do tell you we are being recorded, In California both parties have to know they are being recorded, because they told me we were, if I did record, I would have had the violation. I had a supervisor come on the line, I told them my terms, I told them I have done this in the past and companies can do this, she called me back the next day and said they do not have the authority because they are just assigned. So on this CO, I am either going to have to try and catch these guys in a violation, pay for it, and dispute afterword, or just wait until they sell it off as a loss, and when the new CA calls me and sends their first letter, I will call and pay and make sure I get the letter I need. I am first going to go the Verification route now, and see what happens. Bufan, to answer your question from my point of view, tarbaby and Fizzle are right..I just was very persistent with the CO that were not that much, because I could afford to pay them if they agreed, this was in lieu of disputing which I did first every time. I also did have a couple CO come off from disputing, but I did have one put back on. Remember though, there is leverage depending on how close you are to SOL for lawsuit, once past it, the only leverage THEY have now is ...are you going to need your credit in the next how ever many years your SOL for it to fall off your report..So you have an edge there because you can come with...I would like to pay you guys..would you like payment...like mentioned by many experienced people here, the phone idea is not something they agree with, and I understand why, but I also mentioned I got the PFD letters faxed to me, and they would just state that if paid by XX/XX/XXXX we will delete the file from your CB. And they after payment, I was faxed my receipt. It is up too you on how you negotiate...I ALWAYS go with the rout of ..I am confused, not sure what happen, I get a little upset..but not directed at them...then I apologize to them stating I not upset at you at all..I appreciate you help...what can I do...people have a natural instinct to want to help someone in need, so this is why I preferred talking to them on the phone, you can express sincere need for help...and if they have the ability, you have a good chance that you get a good result..if the company or supervisor for the CA you are talking to just has a strict no we cannot policy about PFD .. then all other methods expressed on the awesome credit info center will be your best shot of success.
  11. I see some of you have been hard at work, you have been posting away I see. If there are any questions I might be able to answer I will probably get back on in about a week or so. But I would also find others like me where you see the improvements, and search their posts and try and see what they asked and what they posted. Start with mine if you like. If any questions come up, let me know. On the rebuilding your credit side, I first started about 5 years ago when I was in the mid 400's I had to get builder cards like, First Premier, Credit One Bank, Orchard or Household...the downside to these what when I got them sent too me, the fees make the card come with a balance already...but I had no choice. So if you have some cards that are currently good standing and active, just continue to stay positive, try to add in an installment loan or two if you do not already have one, start with smaller ones if possible. A good way to do this is put some money in a bank account, and borrow off your money , make sure its an installment loan. On the negatives, keep doing what you are doing, make sure you follow the dispute process that is layed out exactly how it is written, if you have not found that post, search for it. If you can catch on the CA's with a violation, you are dead in the water unless you have the proper documentation. For the most part though, a lot of these companies are following the law so.. try and catch them, if you do not succeed... I can tell you that while continuing to build, I actively went after the less expensive collections and contacted the companies by phone (most experienced here do not really promote this idea) but I had a method and it worked for me on 3 CO, you want to get someone on the phone that can do what you are going to ask,(manager, or experienced CA agent) but you start out with you sob story, let them know you really want to be good on debts, but say you were screwed by a relative that asked you to have it in their name, or you didnt know they did it, and now you are stuck with it, also try the truth and remind them, I am calling you..that shows for something!! And depending on how old the date of last activity is, this has leverage involved, if the DOL is past your states SOL for lawsuits (mine was 4 years in California) the older the better chance you can say listen I will pay you XXX , make an offer, but I want a letter faxed to me telling me you will request deletion from the CB's. I had the letter in my hand actually after we made this agreement by fax, and I called back, made payment, they then sent my receipt. You have more leverage on CO after the SOL, but you can get results before then, a CA will sometimes, I think most times actually, eventually call it a loss for them and then sell the CO off to another CA at even less pennies on the dollar. The old CA can no longer report, it is no longer their debt, then the new company will send you a letter stating the 30 days verification or it is your debt letter..blah blah...they may also call you. Now you have a couple options here, you can try and use the "dispute process/Verification of Debt" and keep your paper trail and hope for a violation, OR you can make an agreement with them...I have been trying to pay this debt...however the last company did not respect my situation...yada yada...(sob story), your company sounds professional, maybe we can take care of this right now... I am willing to pay XXX (pennies on the dollar, do not be to greedy or they will just call your bluff) but I want a letter showing me this debt will NOT be reported to the CB's, not a letter stating you have paid as agreed, or settled in full. They have not yet reported in this circumstance, but the letter can protect you in case they do for some reason. Now, as my credit was a little better, I got a BOFA secured card, payed $99 deposit, got $500 limit...a year later, of course I stayed positive, a year later, they took off secured status, bumped me up to $5000...I am now at a limit of $14,200 I would also like to personally thank Miracle, DocDon, Mathis..(SP), and many others for their great posts and advice. I have not been on for a long while because I had made great progress and I started to work on my fortune with my new found ability to leverage the banks money!!! And heres the truth..you see my scores below, and the only reason I am not above 700 yet is because 2 CO ended up on my report about a year ago by surprise, I made the mistake of leaving a phone bill and electric bill in my name at a home I lived at with my Best friend and brother, they left and did not pay or cancel the last bills...I have not yet went through the great "Credit Info Center" blitzKrieg..but unfortunately for them..operation perfect credit has commenced!!!!
  12. Yeah Yeah, congrats!! I did the same thing a year and a half ago 99/500 ..went unsecured in a year..CL went to I thin k $3000 ...now $14,200!!! I cheated a little to get it up to $14,200 though, on my own it got up too $10,500 and my fiance has a Bofa and has had perfect credit, I had put myself as an authorized user on hers a while back..so I was looking to transfer some balances to Bofa and the guy brought up her card, and said we could increase her limit and move over the increased amount to my card!! It worked out pretty well, kept my Utilization low..keep on plugging guys and gals!!
  13. The doctors office may very well do just that, especially if the collection is just assigned to a collector, when did you get the letter for collection? They will probably report soon, even for the $49. Either way, if the doctor or the collection agency accepts payment and they have not reported, I would try my best to get a letter stating there is a $0 balance and it will NOT be reported to the CB's Good Luck.
  14. Great job..if you happen to transfer a balance or are using it for small purchases you should get a $1000 CL increase in 6 months.
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