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Everything posted by Bigwoodystyl

  1. I say the addresses could be a big deal. The way the "e-Oscar" automated system works is that the CRA can see what has been reported by whom. Elaborating just a bit: Addresses get on your credit file one of two ways: You self-report the address usually by credit application A data furnisher (creditor / JDB / CA) reports the addressIf these aren't addresses that were ever yours, then it's unlikely they came from a credit application. (If they did, you could have ID Theft... are all of the accounts yours? Don't answer that, just think about it to yourself ) If they didn't come from a credit application, then they came from a data furnisher. If those faulty addresses are still the most recent address with one or more data furnishers, then Trans Union will be loathe to remove the address since it is a currently reported item. If this is a zombie debt, i.e., it's not being actively managed anymore, then removing the address for that creditor is a big deal. Why? Because one of the primary keys the automated dispute system looks for is a match on the address field. If that isn't there, the account will (usually) fall off during a dispute. So, one decent strategy to try when doing credit repair is: Remove all old addresses. Wait 30 days. Dispute all TL that might be attached to those old addresses..Note: this won't work for those creditors who are still actively managing your account. In fact, it may cause those creditors simply to update your address, send you a notice, and restart their collection efforts, including phone calls, and potential lawsuits. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's a bit esoteric and long-winded. But, that answers that first question about addresses. The rest of your stuff sounds pretty minor. The 3 year old short sale is bad, but it's not horrendous. I don't think it's a deal breaker by itself. You can always get a true FICO score at myfico.com to see how it's affecting your score. With 65 pages of positive history, and this thing being 3 years old, I bet you're still above 700. Before following the above poster's advice and going to a bank / broker with a flawed credit report, I would go through a full round of credit repair, dispute all negative accounts, all late payments, everything. Do it by mail; don't do the online dispute. Tons of strategies you can try: Disputes under the FCRA (re-investigation)Disputes with the OC under FACT ActDebt Validation letters under the FDCPA with the collection agenciesYou can negotiate with the collection agencies and offer PFDYou can (potentially) file lawsuits There is more than one way to skin a cat. That's just the tip of the iceberg. Stay! Look around a bit! Read! There are people out there (lots of them!) who have enriched themselves and gotten their credit fixed at the same time. Your issues sound minor compared to some of the stuff I've dealt with in the past. I would wager you can fix these problems with some research and effort.
  2. *Bump (always liked this thread)* I've been holding PRNHX and PREMX from T. Rowe Price as a long-term buy and hold for a few years now. ( Emerging Markets Stock and Bond funds) good diversification because they have a lot of international holdings, and PREMX has been paying good cash dividends anywhere from 7% to the 5.5% they are currently paying. I still like them even with all the unrest in Turkey, Brazil, etc., and other so called emerging markets. In day-trading account I still hold most of my QLIK that I bought right after IPO. I like PNC long-term. Wanted to buy them in the 50's... didn't pull the trigger. Don't love them as much at today's price 3/4 aint bad... kinda funny that you had them listed by the ranked order of their performance. BNI absorbed by BNSF at a premium to shareholders. VZ almost doubled in value and paid a nice dividend and still does. HCBK stayed flat, but continues to pay an albeit much smaller dividend. CHNG collapsed.and faces bankruptcy
  3. I agree. Depending upon where you live and how you use your phone, you might be quite happy with one of these companies (generally called mobile virtual network operators). Similar plans are Tracfone, Boost Mobile, Straight Talk, Net10, etc. Consumer Cellular, in particular, leases extra bandwidth on AT&T towers. You can get great looking plans with unlimited voice, text, data, etc. What these companies don't tell you is that you are using AT&T's [or Sprint's, Verizon's, T-Mobile's] secondary data networks. This means a few things: You do not have the ability to "roam" onto anybody else's towers. When you have a contract with any of the Big 4 carriers, it includes a roaming agreement. If you have the CDMA carriers Sprint/Verizon, you can roam on Verizon/Sprint towers when you don't have service with your primary carrier. Analogously, you can roam between T-Mobile/AT&T if you have one of the GSM carriers. If you have a plan with one of these MVNO carriers, you cannot roam. For example, if you have Consumer Cellular, and you are in an area where AT&T has weak service, you will have weak service. Your phone will not roam to a more nearby T-Mobile tower like it would if you had a postpaid contract with AT&T. Data speeds.. Sure, you may have "unlimited" data, but 99% of these plans/phones are for 3G service. [there are 4G/HSPA+ T-Mobile phones available with Wal-Mart's Straight Talk]. Unlimited data is typically aimed at power users and early adopters. And, those are the people who want nothing to do with 3G service. So, there is a huge tradeoff here. TINSTAAFL! Phones. The phones are of a lower quality. The processors are slower, the cameras don't produce as many megapixels, the memory is less.... But, again, their target market is not the power users and early adopters. Now, if you live in a big city, don't travel much, and thus don't have a need to roam... and don't have a need for the international features that AT&T and T-Mobile can give you.... and only use the Web on your phone to check e-mail, use simple apps to keep track of things, and occasionally look something up on Google, then this can be a great fit for you, and you can save a ton of $$$ just staying 1-2 steps behind in this technological arms race.
  4. It sounds like it is simply an inquiry? If you owe back taxes, they often hire third party collection agencies.... perhaps the IRS is showing on your report as one of these debt collectors and you do not realize it?? The inquiry is obviously permissible if you owe taxes.
  5. Secured lines and loans most definitely do help your credit! The narrative code does little to your score. Further, some secured cards do not even note to the CRA that it is, in fact, secured.
  6. Try GM. Apparently, they've ramped up their subprime lending GM Ramps Up Risky Subprime Auto Loans To Drive Sales; Taxpayers Still Own 26.5% - Investors.com
  7. 564 is not a good score. I think you will struggle to find attractive financing. But, a credit score is just a number. You can be a good credit risk, yet have a bad credit score and vice versa. How much cash can you put down? What does your most recent credit history look like: 6 months? 12 months? 18 months? How expensive is the car you want to buy? Do you have full time, stable employment? Do you have other significant debts relative to your income?
  8. It's good to have goals! But, AMEX.. really? I had an AMEX years ago. I could hardly use it anywhere; I got tired of this and closed it. If you want it just to have it for a milestone, great! But, there are more practical, functional cards out there with comparable rewards and service.
  9. This happens all the time with TU. They are by far the least reliable of the big 3, in no small part because they have this issue with split files. The worst part is that only one report is sold to lenders even if there are multiple split files. So, lenders will buy reports from TU and calculate a FICO based on that report, but the report in question may only be a very small portion of the applicant's total history!! For example, when I, myself, apply for credit, the TU report that gets sold to lenders only lists 2 credit card accounts, both with high limits and no debt. It doesn't include my mortgage or any of my paid/closed installment loans or any of my other rather lengthy positive credit history. So, if lenders were only looking at my TU report, they would imagine that I have zero liabilities This works to my advantage, but it could quite possibly go the other way, where a potential borrower might have both good and bad credit and all of the derogatory accounts are split onto one file. If TU then sells that bad file to lenders, it would have negative consequences for the applicant. TU can fix your split file, but finding the right person is difficult. When I was in the heyday of my credit repair, I had good success writing to their address in Fullerton, California [instead of the one in Pennsylvania]. Writing their headquarters in Chicago has always been fruitless. [it's hit or miss if you want to call Mumbai, but at least it's toll free..] But, if you don't have any derogatory accounts on either of the two split files, I'd probably leave it alone if I were you... Experian still has good data and strong relationships from their days as TRW, but they're a behemoth multinational company headquartered outside the US. Personally, I don't like or trust them. Equifax is the oldest of the big 3 and the only one that has its origins as a CRA, and I think going forward they have stronger relationships with lenders and more reliable data than the other two. I'm biased because I used to work there [and loved working there], but I think I'm being objective when I say that. A quick search for TU split file returned this: http://www.creditinfocenter.com/forums/credit-bureaus-reports-scores/302901-my-reports-split-now-what.html http://www.creditinfocenter.com/forums/credit-repair/307457-tu-deleted-my-entire-credit-history-whaaat.html http://www.creditinfocenter.com/forums/credit-bureaus-reports-scores/289909-tu-account-information-just-disappeared.html
  10. Good looking smoker! My chicken is pretty phenomenal. I think I'm impatient with the brisket. I start poking the thermometer in it too early and the juices run out. Also, when the internal temp isn't going up after like 2-3 hours, I get worried. One time I turned up the heat... didn't work. I've only tried 3-4 times, and haven't gotten it right. Next time, I'm going to execute the plan all the way through, even if it takes 8 hours.
  11. I've had an Orange Savings account for years and I've also had a ShareBuilder trading account, which was purchased by ING a few years back. I too am a bit disappointed that both of those will now be some form of Capital One.
  12. I'm curious how does one file BK and at the same time not know that s/he has $50,000 worth of stock options?
  13. Close whichever accounts you'd like to close. It's likely the accounts that you close will still report for another 10 years anyway. Get 2, maybe 3 real credit cards that can grow with you and close everything else. I'm of the opinion that nobody needs 5 credit cards anyway.
  14. www.annualcreditreport.com or do a search for "back door"
  15. If not, I bet there is a market for smaller bbq competition. Look for/start a group on facebook/google + ?? My guess is that Philly, like a lot of other northern cities, has some type of rib/bbq cookoffs around Memorial Day, etc., but it will probably be mostly well-established restaurants and they'll sell you food on sampler plates. It's not quite the same experience, and will hurt your wallet a bit more too, lol. Speaking of, I was in Jersey not too far outside Philly a few years back and I had some "award winning" bbq from a locally acclaimed restaurant [can't remember the name] and IMHO, it wasn't even in the same ballpark as some of the 'que I've had at tailgates down here in SEC country.. I'm a yankee too, living in the South for 2 years now. I'm still more of a casual pitmaster; it's a hobby for me and I learn as I go. Trial and error... I bought one of these [Big Drum Smoker] back in 2010 and I've got pulled pork, chicken, turkey, sausage fatty all down to a perfect science now. My ribs are getting better and, man, l really struggle with beef brisket.
  16. Nearly all simple fixed interest installment loans are structured this way. If you want to save money on interest, and pay the loan off even faster, you might be better off making a separate "principal only" payment in addition to your monthly payment rather than sending in one "overpayment". That, however, doesn't give you the flexibility to miss payments as jq mentioned. [Although, I'd argue that that flexibility is moot anyway because of all the crazy repayment options available on student loans...] [note: conventional, fixed rate mortgage loans are one of the only exceptions where your monthly payment remains unchanged regardless of how much extra you pay and the extra principal reduces your term without specific instruction from you on how to apply payment]
  17. If it's really not your account you've been wasting your time. Fill out the FTC ID Theft Affidavit and everything that entails and send it certified to the CRA. The CRA will then be required to remove the listing and block it from ever reporting again in any fashion. I would start by filing a temporary fraud alert with any of the 3 CRA. This will trigger the other 2 to place the same alert. You will then receive in the mail confirmation from each of the 3 CRA of such alert. That confirmation notice will contain a special mailing address to the fraud resolution portion of their company. Then, send your fraud affidavit certified to that address. Note: do NOT follow this strategy if this is your account or an account on which you cosigned.
  18. Facebook still sucks I've got more friends than you!
  19. I too think cross-collateral and right to offset is likely in your contract, but I'm no attorney. If you're in Alabama, I have no qualms recommending these guys: Alabama Consumer
  20. I would bet you a million dollars that the owner of the Bentley donates more money to charity than you do both on an absolute and relative scale...
  21. If all of your negatives will be gone within the next year, I wouldn't worry about it. Accounts that old are hardly affecting your score. The time you would need to spend removing items 6 years old will not be worth the yield. I would focus on rebuilding new credit, paying debts and building assets. One thing I might do is save those Credit files. They could come in handy once the reporting period has passed. Equifax likely shows no anticipated removals because they show you the DOFD instead. [At least they do on the reports they send in the mail] Just add 7 years [+ 6 months] to the DOFD...
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