S. Louis Blisko

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About S. Louis Blisko

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    Author - Researcher

core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Biography
    Author of Credit Warfare
  • Occupation
    Writer / Researcher

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  • Location
    FL
  1. There are a few other options here. 1) Negotiate a re-opening of the account with the understanding that the current status will be "back dated" to show "paid as agreed. This one may be tough given your age and lack of experience with an issue of this type but it can be done. 2) If you enter into a "re-payment" agreement you in effect create a NEW credit account to be reported by the collection agency they hired. NOT GOOD for you or your credit. So.... better to save some money (say about $1,000) and then contact them to "settle" the matter in one shot. One payment with the express WRITTEN understanding that (A) the debt is "paid in full" and ( They "Delete" the collection as a PFD matter. 3) Dispute the issue under 809b of the FDCPA... See what if anything they send you BUT.......... Be very careful of what you use for an address and contact info. You don't want them knowing where you are or how to call you So..... Use a P.O. Box in a different town or a UPS store address and don't give phone contact info until you receive something in writing agreeing to settle the matter as previously stated above. NOTE: Listen to your Uncle Steve (That would be me) - NEVER EVER Sign for someone else on a loan. Particularly a "boyfriend" or friend of yours. When you get older you'll do better by keeping your and your future spouse's credit separate so that if one of you get's sick, hurt or loses a job you'll have the other file to fall back on. LEARN TO SAY "NO" - It doesn't make you mean. It makes you smart. Here endeth the lesson....
  2. Depending on your skills (communication) you might want to consider speaking ot someone in authority at the collection agency. Tell them you would like to dispute the item with the bureaus if they would agree to not respond. This is most likely your best shot as otherwise they'll tell you they are unable to lie about the status. A nonresponse is different. They simply ignore the request for information but it is also important that they don't (A) re-report later and or ( sell the account as an unpaid debt to a JDB. May the schwartz be with you!
  3. Quick follow up on my previous. Make sure you get it in writing and not just do it by phone. Just in case one department at the bank doesn't communicate with the other.
  4. Car in danger of being repossessed? Don't panic.Ask your lender to "re-age" the loan. Re-aging car payments puts those in arrears at the end of the loan making your account current. You pay a small interest fee and move on. The bank doesn't want your car. It's a depreciating asset that sells for pennies at auction. Be nice when you call the lender. REMEMBER... "The force has a strong influence on the weak minded" (Starwars) Be smart, be polite and let them know you are "aware" that this solution exists. If you're no more than 3 payments behind it should be a simple thing to make happen. May The Schwartz Be With You!!
  5. Two strategies here. 1) Send a DV letter to the collector requesting all relevent proofs of the alledged debt. They most likely will not send it. The account is 5+ years old. When they fail to send verification you can send a copy of that letter (the DV letter) and the corresponding certified mail receipt to the bureaus and request removal. 2) You can Dispute with the bureaus directly and leave it to the insurance co to respond properly or not. I would send the DV first and give it 30 days. Then dispute with the bureuas. All The Best,
  6. Who owns the debt may not be relevent in terms of fixin the issue. Chexsystem is subject ot the same laws as are the credit bureaus. Send a dispute letter to Chexsystems and dispute the item as "not yours". If the bank is saying it's not their issue or account any longer they probably won't confirm to Chexsystems. Only the bank could have reported you to them so if they sold the debt or account they may not respond thus your problem will be solved. May The Schwartz Be With You !!
  7. That you have postive credit from some time ago is indicative of long term character That is the value of leaving it.
  8. More importantly if you pay under a payment arrangement you give the collector a legal reason to keep reporting as that is considered a new credit account. Let it fall off and move on I agree.
  9. The reporting period cannot be extended by the assigning of a debt to a collection agency under the law. The original charge off date is what matters in terms of the 7 year period. It is 7 years no more. From the charged off to profit and loss or the date of adjudication. Send a letter to the original creditor requesting when the account was closed and or charged off. Send certitied return receipt requested. That is the date you need to pay attention to.
  10. I must respectfully disagree with the previous response. It is NEVER a good idea to speak to the bureaus on the phone about information you want deleted. It is ALWAYS better to send one comprehensive letter to each bureau regarding all info you want deleted the first time out. If not you risk future letters being ignore as "Frivilous or Irrelevent". Send certified mail return receipt requested or do it on their web sites but be careful of using their multiple choice options for reasons to delete. Be patient. Be persistant and you'll have success. When you get the new reports (post investigation) sent to you that's when the game really begins because that's when you find out which companies are going to fight and which are not. Step 2 can be discussed here when that time comes if you like. Regards,
  11. If the accounts are due to come off your reports next year but you want to buy a house now a PFD strategy is probably best. 1) Make sure you do it in writing NOT on the phone. 2) Send Certified Mail Return Receipt Requested 3) Be Very Careful as to the wording of your letter. Best of luck, S. Louis Blisko
  12. Dispute all. Do so via U.S. mail certified. At the same time send DV letters to the JDBs so if any of them "verify" with the bureaus you'll be setup for round 2. You need to shake the cage first to find out who is and isn't going to fight. All the best,
  13. I agree on changing the reason but also send new DVs to the creditors / collectors. Wait 30 days. When they don't respond send your "re-dispute" to Experian with copies of the certified return receipts stating that there is no way they verified as you attempted in writing to do the same and recieved NO response. Tell them you will be holding them accountable under the law for knowing reporting information that is non-verifiable. Good Luck!
  14. You a starwars fan? "The force can have a strong influence on the weak minded" (Obi Wan). Call Mr. Fish Below (contact info from their 8k - they are publically traded). Tell him you had a "tiny" bill that there was a miscommunication on and it was sent to a CA. You are trying to buy a house and his tiny issue is causing you problems getting approved. Would he please contact the collection agency and tell them to "delete" once paid. Make sure you email him a follow up as well and thank in for the help getting it "deleted". Richard FishChief Financial Officer720-479-3538rfish@wideopenwest.co May The Schwartz Be With You !
  15. Am I understanding this correctly? You had a car financed and then had a car accident. Where is the car now? Was it totalled? If so who was the legal insurer at that time? If this is the only issue you should be able to knock this out in short order. If the car is still in your posession then presumably you are making payments on it. If it was totalled then and you had insurance with anyone the question would be were you covered for colliision. Depending on what state you're in they insurance company should have been madated to cover collision to a point. More detail is needed to better guide you but this is not a collection issue from what I see. it's an insurance / liability issue that needs to be resolved first. Sorry, I know you were hoping for more. If you can provide a bit more detail in terms of what happened to the car and did you continue to pay on the loan (sounds like you didn't) I may be better able to help. Regards,