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Everything posted by cap1kid

  1. If the Rubenesque model on the front cover is any indication-this thing is way outdated.
  2. Look at it as if you were Cap1: 1) Why settle- you owe the money-it's a fresh account 2) They are getting quicker in lawsuits 9 g's is a good chunk of change- I doubt they will negotiate less than 75%
  3. What card? What are your scores? Don't fall for applying for junk- becase its easy. I have simple way to get a decent card and all it tkes is time and patience. Apply for a credit union- put 25 or 50 dollars a pay into a savings account- when it gets over $1000.00 ask for a secured card. Your $ will be tied up for 6 months to a year depending on credit union. After you get your card- keep utilzation under 25%- pay in full every month- so you don't pay any interest. In 2 years youll have a nice tradeline and nice savings account. I spent to many years getting easy junk cards- I never saw a rea
  4. I think you'll find EQ is easy to dispute inquiries- You can do them online too, and typically fall off within a two days- I've even heard of them taking one off on existing trade lines. Example Sterling for a Kay's card. TU and EX are damn near impossible to get off- TU was B* for awhile- but I don't think thats working as well and some people have found B* returned, and disappear again.
  5. I would go to and get your official report- Its free once a year. Or since you were denied you can request a report at each one of the websites- better yet, call the numbers and request one be sent to you. TRI-MERGE reports are difficult to read.
  6. I like the idea of a credit union- but here is how I would approach it. 1) Set up a special savings account at the credit union-(not one a checking account you pay bills with) 2) Place $1000 in that account with the intention of not touching it for a year. If you don't have 1000- place $50 a pay into the account - or whatever you can afford- and wait until you have $1000. 3) Keep working on getting those other cards Util down to around 10% or lower- this will increase your scores. 4) Apply for a credit card at your credit union- If your approved for over 1000 Great- 5)If denied - immeadiately
  7. What method did they use to get the $50.00 from you? If it was a credit card I would dispute it as unauthorized. Contact your back and try to get the money back. Do you have copies of the original Dv you sent, and the responses? Looks like some violations going on. See if ROBERTNASHVILLE or someone with more experience can help you- it's beyond my scope.
  8. AFter reviewing your cards , it seems you are stuck in the <500 credit range. Here is what I did to get out of there and create good habits. 1) join a cedit union 2) place 50 a paycheck into a savings account- direct deposit works best if your employer allows it 3) when that account gets over 1,000 ask for a secured credit card. 4) keep utilization down below 10% on the card and pay in full to avoid interest charges. 5)keep making that 50 a pay deposit- heres your reward: In one year- you will get your 1,000 back- plus have an additional 1300 in savings (assuming you be pad every other week
  9. 1) were you a victim of fraud? A) yes- I see no problem if your truthful B)no- and you lie on the affidavit- you run the risk of committing fruad, perjury, filing a false complaint- depending on how things work out.
  10. Here's your solution: 1) Divorce your wife immediately- believe me- 10 years from now you'll want to anyways- so why live in misery for the next decade. 2) get a first time- homebuyer loan and all the advantages of the tax break Just kidding..... It's very noble of you to try to help your parents- I think that is a smart way to rent. I don't know if they allow FHA's for second homes. Ithink your gonna need about 8,000 down to get the deal done.
  11. Any update? If your in Kansas, why not check to see if you meet the income requirements for a USDA Guaranteed loan. I think as long as your middle score is >620 you won't have to worry about the chargeoff ( depending on the lenders underwriting- but I don't believe its a requirement for USDA ).
  12. Update- How's everyone doing? I had one- for a CLI on a line of credit. No more until mortgage time.
  13. Your right- leave the BOA alone- nice age is better than any bad effect that is so old. You need to grow a few good accounts- 1 or 2- don't go hog wild on a app spree-- my reason for suggestion a credit union- is that if you go the secured route your almost sure to get it and not waste inquiries.
  14. Seriously- The small ones- Energy and Macy's I would try a pay for delete. Build one a good positive tradeline- My advice- join a credit union- place 50 bucks a pay into a checking account- When that gets OVER $1000.00 ask for a secured card. Be good to that card. Bank Of America- dispute with all three as obsolete CAP ONE - leave alone- nice age - nothing bad RJM- I believe a collections account- try debt validation- or a pay for delete- it's only 44 call and say =I know nothing about this account- what can I do to get it off? If they agree for PFD get it in writing What kind of scores does
  15. My advice- Go on a European vacation for 7 years. Come back and start over.
  16. my suggestion- since you didn't miss that 2 g's during the last ten months, and BoA was good to you. Why don't you turn around and get a BoA CD- for 6 months. I believe in building a good relationship with one lender is better than scattering your business. You have any immeadiate family members in the military? NFCU allows you to piggy back off their membership and offer a nice secured rewards card with no fees.
  17. Did you apply for the FHA loan yet? Did they say you had to pay it off?
  18. I'm no expert- but I do believe you may actually lower your score- but showing recnt activity on a old bad account. Just when I disputed and it updated - it tanked my scores.
  19. I am in the same situation- a $800 credit card has ballooned to a $3000 charge-off. Mine is beyond SOL but is scheduled to stay on report for another 3 years. I got contacted once by an attorney office about this debt- I used the debt validation letter on this website (that is how I found the website) and haven't heard a peep from them. Everytime I dispute it updates as CHARGEOFF and is killing my score. I'm thinking of sucking it up and calling them next week. The thing I worry about is if they don't settle and it goes to a collection agency- is having a collections account on my report- I ha
  20. Call the AG's office in loisianna and explain the sitution , and file a complaint if neccessary.
  21. This is from another post: The key is it's a TAX CREDIT- not a loan- it reduces your tax liability- I would like someone to explain exactly what it means- If my take on it is correct- Suppose you make 200,000 a year and pay 17,000 in taxes- your tax liability is now 2,000. Suppose you make 55,000 a year and you pay 6,000 in taxes- your tax liability is now $0.00 - that doesn't mean you get the difference back (15,000-6,000= 9,000) as a refund. Is this assumption correct??? I'm truly not understanding this tax credit thing.