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Everything posted by Taz

  1. Thanks Susanp. I went to their website and it looks like they have pretty comprehensive coverage options. An out of pocket expense of $75-$125 isn't bad. I guess the days of the $50 service call deductible are gone. I'll wait to get a quote when I finally decide on a house. Hopefully the rates are reasonable or I'll do you like you suggested and ask the seller to pay for it.
  2. Maybe you can find a contract for deed or owner financing. Even with a large down payment it might be tough although each area is different. I know in my area (Minnesota) the lowest FICO score I heard of anyone getting a loan was 640. As we all know the credit market has tightened up quite a bit in the last few years. On the plus side is there are a lot of cheap homes on the market now especially in your area.
  3. I'd be interested in know this as well. Anybody have any input?
  4. Do most of these companies pull another bureau inquiry when determining if they will give a CLI?
  5. The others have mentioned very good points. It would typically be better to buy AFTER you have closed on the house. Most lenders don't seem to hold loans with very short times to they are finished in your debt:income ratios. The car loan lenders are more flexible with these ratios. I'd wait and buy the car after you close on the house if you can possibly do so.
  6. I wanted to add one other thing and I can't edit my post. Some manufacturers have discount levels that the dealer can't violate. For example on new Mercedes, you can't really "deal" on the new price per se. The have certain maximum discount levels they can offer based on certain criteria such as a previous owner. I realize that the Mercedes example might not pertain to a lot of people here but it is something to keep in mind. Something else to consider is taking delivery of a European car in Europe. I saved almost $8k on a BMW that way. The dealers tend to be more flexible on the pricing of these cars as they don't count against their yearly allocation. It is sort of found money for them.
  7. That is an awesome link to Edmunds. I'd like to add that it is worth checking with each manufacturer and see what special programs they have. For example EAA (experimental aircraft association) has a deal with Ford to get special pricing for its members. The caveat is you must be a member for at least a month. Go here to learn more. (ok, I don't have enough posts to post a URL - what a bunch of BS) anyway read between the lines so to speak. w w w. eaa. org/ford/EAA The Ford Partner Recognition Program You get X-plan pricing which can save you a lot of money depending on the car you are buying.
  8. Are there any companies that do this like extended warranties for cars where you can go to get a quote from their website? Or are most of them sold through the realty agencies?
  9. Maybe someone could update the original post with the ones that are actually current. Anyone know off-hand which ones don't apply now?
  10. What is your overall limit? If you are almost maxed out on the card, highly unlikely Chase will lower it. As for USAA, I am a member and they've been great to deal with. I don't know your scores so I can't help you out with what APR you'll pay but I can almost bet it will drop at least 10% from what you are paying. It is worth it to check with them. You also might want to consider a personal installment loan with them. Last time I checked they were around 15%. Just make sure you don't run the card back up again if you pay it off this way.
  11. If you have had a card a long time, it might be worth keeping it just to not dilute the time you've had the revolving account open. I once closed one of those high annual fee cards that I had for a long time and got punished pretty badly for it on my credit report. At the time I had it for over 3 years and my other cards were used for about a year each. If you have a good payment history most of those cards will bump your limit up. As mentioned just call and ask. I had a Crap 1 card that started out at $350. The bumped it to $500 on my first anniversary. Six months later I called and asked for a CLI and they bumped it to $700. It never hurts to ask assuming they don't pull another inquiry.
  12. Make sure that your payment gets there early enough that you are showing LESS than 30% owed on the date your statement closes. The due date is not the important date, the statement closing date is. You can use the entire limit of the card but just make sure you pay it down below the 30% threshold before the statement closing date. Make sure to carry some balance on it but just less than about a 30-35% max. I routinely charge quite a bit on my card but make several payments throughout the month. I always make sure it closes below 30% if I can help it. Keep in mind that this is just a snapshot in time and you can correct it for the next month if needed. Out of habit though I try to make sure it is always below 30% if at possible just in case.
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