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thebigjdoe's Achievements

CIC Member

CIC Member (4/6)



  1. Ok thanks guys. It looks like most were charged off 5 months after my last "on time" payment. I'll keep my eye on these come March 2018... ugh cant wait! Is there any way to tell the exact charge off date? Would i need to call them?
  2. I'm getting confused here and about a year away from the date that my Closed Settled accounts should be removed from my credit report. A couple examples: Citi 1: Last Reported : Jun 07, 2013 Date of last Payment: Jan 30, 2013 Closed Date: Jan 07, 2011 Last Actual Payment: Oct 14, 2010 Settle Date: Jan 24, 2013 Citi 2: Last Reported : Jun 18, 2013 Date of last Payment: Feb 04, 2013 Closed Date: Jan 17, 2011 Last Actual Payment: Oct 14, 2010 Settle Date: Jan 24, 2013 Am I waiting for 7 years from the last monthly payment date (oct 14, 2017) or 7 years from the close date (~1/17/2018) or 7 years from the dettle date (1/24/2020) ?? I just want to know so I can dispute ASAP if it is not removed when it is supposed to be
  3. On an old credit report it shows it was charged off already, a credit report i got when trying to settle them. I was getting sued for one and wanted to settle to prevent further lawsuits. Pretty sure it was charged off around 180 days late. Then they mark late payments and under payment history it actually has the CO notation only once i settled. edit: it shows it under payment history, May 2013 "CO" but that is when I settled, it was charged off well before that point
  4. Hi everyone, I have a few accounts in question with similar questionable reportings I'll give an example of one: I think it's easiest to show with an image so I'll attach it. As far as details, the account was last paid at the end of 2010, and I settled in 2013. It's weird that it is listed as a charge off at the time i settled. Also the payment status still says collectin/charged-off even though i settled for less than full. And the payment history shows all those days late even though they charged off and closed the account at the beginning of 2011. Should I be disputing this account and the others like it?
  5. Yes, 1st was settled for less with the OC directly. It was charged off after 180 days late but never sold, and various CAs were attempting to collect on behalf of chase. Eventually it was Chase, and not any of the various CAs, that I settled with. The second one being "ignored" means that basically from the time I was 30 day late on payment, up until this point I have ignored everything relating to that card, other than a call to chase to find out status for a possible settlement, which I never followed up on. I truely believe that they are washing their hands of unpaid charge-offs, considering them forgiven, and 1099c everyone. I cannot image they would try to later sell any of these accounts that they 1099c'd for
  6. Alright, thought I should chime in. I had 2 alleged debts with chase. One was SETTLED FOR LESS, and one was ignored. I just received two 1099c from Chase. One for the FORGIVEN amount on the settled alleged debt, and one for the FULL amount on the ignored alleged debt. I'm pretty sure they won't be selling these accounts, and apart from our CR, these debts will be done. After chase and their time in court last year, it seems they are just reporting the losses and moving on. Now, how to get these off the credit report
  7. "Charge off" ONLY means it is past 180 days due. They use it for internal accounting but it doesn't mean anything to us. A couple questions that would help are, How many cards do you have that are 180 days past due? and Rough values alleged to be owed on these cards ie 2k, 4k, and 7k. The ONLY way to be certain that Crap1 still actually owns the account is to call them. They will transfer you to their "resolution" department and you can then ask for the status of the account. They will likely say, "we still own the account but _________ is acting as an internal CA. Any deals need to be through said CA." From your case, it seems these are relatively new Charge Offs (far from SOL). This letter from a "Lawyer" is likely a scare tactic. I had half a dozen charge offs and EVERY ONE OF THEM sent me a "Lawyer" scare letter within months of charge off. Your debt will then go from CA to CA until Crap 1 either sues you, or sells to a JDB. I would seriously reconsider a payment plan. It makes no sense, especially for someone who is scraping by as is. What happens if your car breaks down, and you need the money for brakes, or a thermostat or ANYTHING! You won't be able to pay said CA, you will have reset SOL, and you now have a handful of other CA who see you are paying, and then they step up on their game. You need to decide to either FIGHT, or settle. If you settle, YOU LUMP SUM!!! You plan on paying them 250 a month, and you owe them $1500? What you should do is ignore them (of course make sure no lawsuits are filed) until you have a lump sum and some bargaining power. I actually waited until I Had enough to lump sum a few cards, then made calls, and settled between 22.5%-35%. I vote NO on the payment plan settlement! If it was just charged off, i think it's unlikely they sue for a bit. Nothing I said is guaranteed and I am not a lawyer. Speaking from my own experience
  8. Been out of commission so just logged back in and Love the input. Some great feedback here and I think I will sit for now, and see where it goes. They did say that they wouldn't even call me to try to collect on this debt, as well as not sell it to any JDB or have any CA collect on it. It is very strange what is going on here, but I will keep a close eye out for anything from chase. Thanks again everyone you guys rock!
  9. Ok, thanks everyone for the input. The alleged debt is around 6k. If they did file a suit would they at that point still be willing to settle? I was trying to knock everything out this year while I am still insolvent. I have settled other alleged debts this year and am expecting 1099c, however because of insolvency, these should be forgiven. As a side note, I had 2 alleged debts from chase and they settled the first one for 30%. They said that their settlement low has to do with a variety of facts about the account, and they cant go below 50% for this one. Uuuggg what to do.
  10. Ok, So the long story: I tried to call them and settle. I explained that I have an alleged debt that I want to settle in lump sum as I don't have the time to deal with it. I offered them 25%, they said no they wouldn't drop below 50% and I said that wouldn't work. They explained to me that the account is still with them, in their internal "resolution department" and WOULD NOT be sold OR collected on by other CAs. They actually made it a point to tell me that this debt would NOT be sold to a JDB or handled by ANY OTHER CA other than chase. It was strange the way they said it, as if, they were saying "look we have been getting busted for selling off debts so don't worry, we wont be selling your debt we promise" Was hoping someone had some insight on why they would say this, and if it means I may have a better chance of waiting it out. THanks!!
  11. Ok, I have an alleged debt with Chase, and it is still with them. It has not been sold to a JDB, and they said it will no longer be collected on by 3rd party CAs. From what I gather, Chase is buried in lawsuits already, and is currently not going after alleged debtors. My SOL expires next October...what kind of bet would I be taking to just ignore it until that date comes? Do I have a good chance of this passing the SOL, since it is Chase? Thanks again!!
  12. I have a lot of experience in settling alleged debts with the OC as well as OC assigned collectors (very different from JDB). Here is EXACTLY how it works. The Debt that does not get paid for 180 days gets charged off by the OC. In most cases they DO NOT immediately sell the debt to a JDB, instead they hire a collection agency (CA) to collect on their behalf. While the debt is to be collected by said CA, THEY ARE UNDER CONTRACT, THEY CANNOT by contract settle with you during this time frame. THE TIME FRAME VARIES BY CONTRACT. An OC will give a CA number 1, for example, 4 months to collect on said debt. The CA can and WILL change as time passes, so BEFORE any settlement is made, ALWAYS contact the OC first and have them transfer you to the current CA handling your collections. When CA number 1 initially gets the debt, they will try to get it all, and slowly give you better offers, up until the point where the debt is about to be handed back to the OC. AFTER this contract, the debt WILL be handed back to the OC for some sort of time frame. It is then handled by the OC for between 1-4 weeks, and then contracted to a new CA. Once again, CA number 2 is collecting on the OC behalf and the OC WILL NOT DEAL WITH YOU DIRECTLY. The ONLY time you can deal with the OC after a charge off is while there is NOT a CA assigned to your account. Believe it or not, you may well be able to strike a better deal with the contracted CA than the OC itself. I found this out the hard way. The peace of mind of dealing with the OC might make this worth it to you, I'm not sure of your situation. ========== DETAILED EXAMPLE ========== 1. Credit card A is charged off by OC after 180 days of non payment we will say this happens on 1/1/13. This really doesn't mean anything to you, this is for the OCs books. It will however show on your credit report as charged off. 2. On 1/14/13 the OC contracts the collections to CA#1. While CA#1 is collecting for this debt, the OC CAN NOT DEAL WITH YOU DIRECTLY! You may receive letters from multiple collectors about the same debt but ONLY ONE CA IS AUTHORIZED TO COLLECT FOR THE OC!!! CALL THE OC TO FIND OUT 3. On 5/22/13 CA#1 has failed to collect on credit card A, and the account is passed back to the OC. At this point when you call the OC, they will transfer you to their internal Resolution Center (internal collectors) OC will typically settle between 30-50% 4. On 6/5/13 the OC contracts the account to CA#2. While CA#2 is collecting for this debt, THE OC CANNOT DEAL WITH YOU DIRECTLY!!! you may receive letters from multiple, but only one can be "trusted" (in quotes because none of them can be trusted, GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING) 5. On 9/5/13 CA#2 has failed to collect on said debt, and the account will be handed back to the OC. You will have another Short to VERY SHORT time to deal directly with the OC. If you want to deal with the OC, these are the only times that you can. Once it gets bounced off again, you will be dealing with 3rd party CA who is collecting on behalf of OC. 6. On 9/25/13 the OC contracts the account to CA#3. and so on and so on and so on. ====================================== Get EVERYTHING in writing. Read this blog for his anatomy of a good settlement letter: http://www.zipdebt.com/blog/debt-settlement-letters This is what is true as far as I know based on settling multiple alleged debts over the last year, making over 100 phone calls, and talking to supervisors on many occasions. Good luck!
  13. I will certainly keep an eye on it. No point in delaying it at this point. I'll go read up on that thread (and more).
  14. Main Questions: i) Do I take this on myself, or hire an attorney? ii) What is my first step based on the answer to i Being sued for: 1) Open Book Account; 2) Money Lent; and 3) Account Stated. 1. Who is the named plaintiff in the suit? Persolve LLC / Account Resolution Associates 2. What is the name of the law firm handling the suit? (should be listed at the top of the complaint.) (from online court site) Attorney: Edit Alexandryan Persolve, LLC , 9301 Winnetka Avenue3. How much are you being sued for? 5k < ME < 10k 4. Who is the original creditor? (if not the Plaintiff) Wells Fargo Bank 5. How do you know you are being sued? (You were served, right?) Sewer summons to my old residence, I know the new tenants. 6. How were you served? (Mail, In person, Notice on door) Sewer served. Old residence told them I know longer live there and they dropped summons in driveway anyway... 7. Was the service legal as required by your state? Nope 8. What was your correspondence (if any) with the people suing you before you think you were being sued? No contact. A few answered calls and i just hang up on them when they say who they are. 9. What state and county do you live in? California 10. When is the last time you paid on this account? (looking to establish if you are outside of the statute of limitations) ~Middle 2010 11. What is the SOL on the debt? To find out: 4 years 12. What is the status of your case? Suit served? Motions filed? You can find this by a) calling the court or looking it up online (many states have this information posted - when you find the online court site, search by case number or your name). The latest notes on the online docket say, "Cv Summons Filed" In Actuality I was sewer served last week 13. Have you disputed the debt with the credit bureaus (both the original creditor and the collection agency?) No 14. Did you request debt validation before the suit was filed? Note: if you haven't sent a debt validation request, don't bother doing this now - it's too late. No 15. How long do you have to respond to the suit? (This should be in your paperwork). If you don't respond to the lawsuit notice you will lose automatically. In 99% of the cases, they will require you to answer the summons, and each point they are claiming. We need to know what the "charges" are. Please post what they are claiming. Did you receive an interrogatory (questionnaire) regarding the lawsuit? Not sure, summons is dated 8/22/13, but it was just sewer served last week, and still says "Cv Summoms Filed" onine. 16. What evidence did they send with the summons? An affidavit? Statements from the OC? Contract? List anything else they attached as exhibits. Affidavit of Venue
  15. Great info, thanks a bunch. At the moment the online docket reads "Cv Summons Filed" So this means my 30 days has not started yet, correct? I'm guessing any day that will be changing, and I'll just get the summons one way or another and start a new thread. I'm still wondering if I want to fight this myself, or just get an attorney (who will likely want to settle). This is with Persolve who I hear is difficult to deal with.
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