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Found 3 results

  1. HELPPPP!!! okay, ill try to keep this short and detailed! Accident occurred 2 years ago. Insurance adjuster insists I am the 100% responsible party. I disagree. I had several conversations with the insurance adjuster and got her to "reduce the total cost by 15% for possible lack of attention and possible speed being a factor for the other driver". After I got her to admit that much, I knew I had to stick to my guns and not agree to take 100% responsibility. Fast forward to not being able to afford a lawyer (I have 3 small kids, 2 working parents, cost of living is through the roof in NH there was very little wiggle room in our budget) and not being able to find anyone willing to accept pro-bono once hearing the details, I was left to fend for myself. Now here we are 2 years later and I have finally received notice that the lawyer representing the original insurance company has filed in small claims court HERE IS THE KICKER! the paperwork I received states I owe $92,226.75 + filing fees of $145.00 bringing the total to $92,371.75?!?!?!? WHAT IN THE %^#%#$ the original amount back in 2016 was a little over $10,000 After speaking with a representative at the law firm, she confirmed it was in fact a typo. The actual amount should say $9,226.75 HERE IS THE QUESTION! Can I get this whole thing dropped because of this typo???? Small claims court is only supposed to accept charges up to $10,000...... what can I do?!?!?! any help appreciated! TIA
  2. Yesterday I got into an accident, and based on my description over the phone, my insurance agent (GEICO) told me that there is a high possibility of total loss. However, I won't be sure until a GEICO inspector takes a look at it. The accident took place on 12/22, so I won't get any news until after the Christmas holiday weekend. (Monday would be 12/28) I'm currently over a month (but less than two) late on my car payment. When I called my loan company to tell them what had happened, they told me that my car was currently in "collections/repo status" and that my car insurance may deny my claim based on this fact, so I need to make my payment asap. Does anyone know how much of what my loan company is telling me is true? Could they just want the money as soon as possible because the insurance process takes too long? I understand that if I am upside down on the loan, I'm still on the hook for the remaining balance, but, again, I wouldn't know if that is the case for sure until after the inspection. Bottom line: am I really in "collections/repo" status if I am still making payments to my loan company and not a collections agency? And if I am in that status, is it true that GEICO may deny my claim due to it? I'd like to save this money for the holidays (and possibly a new car), if the insurance can take care of it instead of me.
  3. Hello, I recently had my first accident after 20+years of driving - Totally my fault. I took my car in to get an insurance estimate which came out to close to $2400 (my car is only worth about $3500 before accident) they took out my $500 deductible and a $1900 check was sent to me in the mail. I also received a check for around $25 for diminished value So Here's my questions - I am sure the diminished value for my car is more than $25. How would I fight that with the insurance company ? and since the damages are already close to the 80% ($3500*80% =$2800) the point where most cars are totaled by the insurance company, would it be worth it to ask for more or will it only bump me into a position of having my car totaled?? My car runs fine and the damage is mostly to the side door panels. I would really do not want to have it totaled. I have gap coverage and my loan would be covered, but I do not want to get into a newer more expensive car and car payment. In addition to even higher insurance rates with a newer car+accident on record. I already had a plan to have all of my debt paid off by July 2016. My plans now are to use the $1900 and pay down debt ( about half), so I can be debt free closer to the end of this year. and have the work done once I'm debt free, or whenever I am ready to sell/ trade in. I am unsure of how this all works and I still haven't cashed the checks, in case that would constitute acceptance. I would like to get this figured out as soon as possible so I can deposit the check and get on with paying my debt off. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA SC