I am at my wits end!

[shllby1]

Arghhh, I am getting so frustrated. I typed out all my letters to send to the credit bereaus this is what I started with:

Equifax

P.O. Box 105518

Atlanta, GA 30348

To Whom It May Concern:

I am concerned that you have allowed the below information on my credit report and have failed to maintain reasonable procedures in your operations to assure maximum possible accuracy in the credit reports you publish.

Credit reporting laws ensure that credit reporting companies only report 100% accurate credit information. Every effort should be made to ensure the information reported is completely accurate and correct.

The following information therefore must be reinvestigated. I respectfully request to be provided proof of this alleged item, specifically the contract, note or other instrument bearing my signature. Failing that, the item must be deleted from the report as soon as possible:

Additionally, please provide the name address and telephone number of each credit grantor or other subscriber.

Be advised that the description of the procedure used to determine the accuracy and completeness of the information is herby requested as well, to be provided within 15 days of the completion of your reinvestigation. Under federal law, you have 30 days to complete your reinvestigation.

#984603496

#956804597 and so forth.

Well, I was told that this was not the way to start, to be more vague because it would set a fraud alert possibly so now I need to re-do these letters I guess. Anyway, I am also being told that I dont need to so this. Just DV the CA's. I could seriously cry from frustration. I have about 6-8 collection accounts , sprint, comcast, NCO, Afni, and cingular that are all less then a few hundred a piece and I am so lost at where to start. I feel like I keep posting the same questions to you guys and I have been a member awhile now and have not gotten anywhere. I keep reading but I am so confused. Is this letter wrong to send? And how do I approach the first step in dispute or do I start the DV process first?

[someonesomewhere]

First things first.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264049

I presume you have either paper CRs in hand, or online access to your CRs?

Yes, DV the CAs. Keep it simple. Nothing elaborate.

"I recently pulled by credit bureau report, and I discovered your company is reporting that I owe you a debt. In accordance with FDCPA, please provide me with validation that I owe this debt."

Change the wording a bit to fit you, but don't make it elaborate with lots of 4 and 5 syllable words.

If you have already disputed the CA TLs with the CRAs, then hang onto whatever response you received from the CRAs showing that they verified--assuming they did.

If you have not already disputed with the CRAs, then do so.

Take a look at Admin's DV flowchart and follow it.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228576

[shllby1]

First things first.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264049

I presume you have either paper CRs in hand, or online access to your CRs?

Yes, DV the CAs. Keep it simple. Nothing elaborate.

"I recently pulled by credit bureau report, and I discovered your company is reporting that I owe you a debt. In accordance with FDCPA, please provide me with validation that I owe this debt."

Change the wording a bit to fit you, but don't make it elaborate with lots of 4 and 5 syllable words.

If you have already disputed the CA TLs with the CRAs, then hang onto whatever response you received from the CRAs showing that they verified--assuming they did.

If you have not already disputed with the CRAs, then do so.

Take a look at Admin's DV flowchart and follow it.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228576

Now you say "yes dv the CA'S" Are you talking of the collection agency? I was told to dispute with the CRA. The chart is saying to do them at the same time. I guess I will follow the chart. I should word it nicely to the CRA? I dont want to set a fraud alert with them. Thanks.

[someonesomewhere]

Yes, CAs are Collection Agencies.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247970

If you do both, DV the CA and dispute with the CRA, that's what's known as the 1-2 punch.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showpost.php?p=718583&postcount=8

There are varying opinions about whether to dispute online or not with the CRAs.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263996

I started off disputing online, but now as I've gotten more and more of the "we cannot use your documentation", "send us a copy of your SSN and DL", etc. I'm increasingly of the opinion that I should send everything CMRRR. Wording your dispute politely but firmly is best.

Don't get carried away with the words and try to keep it simply. "This account is not mine." "I do not recognize this account." "This account is too old to appear." Give 'em as much of the account number as they provide, but if cross check the account on TU you may find the full account number there. I would include it if you can find it.

[shllby1]

Yes, CAs are Collection Agencies.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247970

If you do both, DV the CA and dispute with the CRA, that's what's known as the 1-2 punch.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showpost.php?p=718583&postcount=8

There are varying opinions about whether to dispute online or not with the CRAs.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263996

I started off disputing online, but now as I've gotten more and more of the "we cannot use your documentation", "send us a copy of your SSN and DL", etc. I'm increasingly of the opinion that I should send everything CMRRR. Wording your dispute politely but firmly is best.

Don't get carried away with the words and try to keep it simply. "This account is not mine." "I do not recognize this account." "This account is too old to appear." Give 'em as much of the account number as they provide, but if cross check the account on TU you may find the full account number there. I would include it if you can find it.

So it is ok to give the whole account number? I have it hear from my TU report. Also, I just simply put in the letter. To Whom It may concern:

I have noticed on my recent credit report some accounts that concern me would you please investigate. Then I just put the name and numbers. Is that ok? Or too vague?

[someonesomewhere]

It's OK to give the whole account number. I would be just a bit more specific as to why these accounts "concern you". Otherwise they'll kick it back as frivolous.

[shllby1]

It's OK to give the whole account number. I would be just a bit more specific as to why these accounts "concern you". Otherwise they'll kick it back as frivolous.

So should I say they are not mine? I was told that if I do that with everyone they may put a fraud alert on my report? Also what is a good 3 in 1 monitering service to go through? Thanks

[someonesomewhere]

Well, you're asking, I'm telling, but if you were "already told" then I guess you already know the answer.

Again, some of the examples I cited were "This account is not mine." "I do not recognize this account." "This account is too old to appear."

Saying they are not yours won't automatically trigger a fraud alert. However, some have gotten fraud alerts on their accounts for challenging a lot of things.

If there are 10 open TLs on your CR, and you claim that all 10 are not yours, then yes that probably would trigger a Fraud Alert.

OTOH, if there are 10 open TLs on your CR, and you claim that 2 or 3 are not yours, then that probably will not trigger a Fraud Alert.

If you are 10 for 10, then it sounds like you are a victim of fraud, and a Fraud Alert would help. If it's lots of old stuff you wanna get rid of, and it truly is old, you probably wanna go ahead and dispute all 10. However, I'd do it in writing via CMRRR.

In any event, Fraud Alerts aren't necessarily a problem. Just an inconvenience. They go away after 90 days, you can write and request them to come (but success is variable), and it can be beneficial for some things (like getting rid of EX inquiries).

Lots of folks in here use TU's TrueCredit. You can sign up for 30 days free, but you'll only see your TU report. If you use this Walmart link, you can save about $3 a month on TrueCredit. It's only $11.21 a month thru Walmart Financial Services. That's what I use.

http://www.truecredit.com/services/cmu/orderChoice.jsp?cb=walmart&loc=1486

Finally, relax, breath, and read this.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264049

[someonesomewhere]

And if you do challenge 10 outta 10 TLs, sign up for TrueCredit first as a Fraud Alert might give you problems signing up. So, get signed up for TrueCredit first, that way you can see all three CRs and know what you're up against. Knowing that first, will help you a lot in knowing where you are, and what's the next step. This stuff can very, very, very quickly overwhelm you. Don't let it. Take it one small step at a time.

Learn, listen, read.

[shllby1]

Thanks alot. I really was having a bad morning trying to figure all this out. I need to clean up my report (10) collections and DH (6) collections. I am going to write a goodwill letter to a few companies that I had lates on about 3 years ago that are still showing I hope that works. And I am going to keep reading. We did sign up for the MYFICO it is a free trial right now and they are giving us some HORRIBLE Fico scores!

[someonesomewhere]

If they are late pays on a now current or closed but paid in full account, then yes a goodwill letter is about your only choice. I've had some surprising luck with goodwills.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showpost.php?p=746810&postcount=2

I was somewhat shocked that I had success goodwilling Chase Bank, including one that was settled for less than the full amount. One of the accounts they goodwilled away was paid off in early '06.

If yours are 3 year old lates, then you stand a pretty good chance with goodwill. But it's really going to depend on the OC. No way to really know, just try and see. It's only 39 cents. Very little to lose and a lot to gain.

Still attempting goodwill with a late pay on Target. No response yet from them. And I don't expect it to work with AMEX. But, as I say, little to lose and lot to gain.

If your collections are unpaid but beyond the SOL, then you have some leverage to try and get a PFD.

If the collections are paid collections, then you can certainly try goodwill, but the odds are much lower. Some in here have talked about actually offering some form of payment for a delete to get a paid collection removed. I'm guessing something like this.

Dear Mr. Creditor,

Would you consider $100 as an administrative fee to offset your time and energy spent in exchange for a delete?

That's a rough guess of a thought. I'll have to research it more and polish it up. I am going to try it next if my goodwill efforts don't bear fruit.

[shllby1]

If they are late pays on a now current or closed but paid in full account, then yes a goodwill letter is about your only choice. I've had some surprising luck with goodwills.

http://www.debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showpost.php?p=746810&postcount=2

I was somewhat shocked that I had success goodwilling Chase Bank, including one that was settled for less than the full amount. One of the accounts they goodwilled away was paid off in early '06.

If yours are 3 year old lates, then you stand a pretty good chance with goodwill. But it's really going to depend on the OC. No way to really know, just try and see. It's only 39 cents. Very little to lose and a lot to gain.

Still attempting goodwill with a late pay on Target. No response yet from them. And I don't expect it to work with AMEX. But, as I say, little to lose and lot to gain.

If your collections are unpaid but beyond the SOL, then you have some leverage to try and get a PFD.

If the collections are paid collections, then you can certainly try goodwill, but the odds are much lower. Some in here have talked about actually offering some form of payment for a delete to get a paid collection removed. I'm guessing something like this.

Dear Mr. Creditor,

Would you consider $100 as an administrative fee to offset your time and energy spent in exchange for a delete?

That's a rough guess of a thought. I'll have to research it more and polish it up. I am going to try it next if my goodwill efforts don't bear fruit.

Well I have my dispute letters for TU and EQ done. I also emailed Credit Acceptance a goodwill and I am writing them one as well. When I first started this process I emailed NCO Lisa Signore and she deleted 2 of DH's collections just like that, I was so happy. I also have a CO with first premier and I guess i should try a goodwill to them as well. I hear they are hard to deal with though. Boy this is a process isnt it, lol...