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Texan newbie needs advice


danni_dee
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Ok, I have been searching and reading. I am in Texas, so I hear that is a good thing when it comes to credit repair. From what I understand is there is no “untimely” DV in Texas, and the CA must respond to a DV. I have 7 baddies on my credit reports, of these 7, 4 are past SOL and the other 3 SOL are up this year.

I had fairly good credit, then (as a single mom) decided to go back to school for a degree, tried my best to keep up my payments but life happens and wasn’t able to. I did over time receive dunning letters, but ignored them, thankfully I have never been sued. It has been a long time since I have received any dunning letters. Also I have no public records.

So now here I am, thankful for the helpful info here.

Here is the breakdown on my 7 baddies, and would like input as to what to do first? DV the Ca, do the 1-2 punch (which if I understand is DV the CA then after getting the green card back, send dispute letter to CRA).

Also, is having a "date opened" with same acct #s re-aging?:?:

LVNV (OC: Providian)

DOFD (EQ): 8/2003 (SOL = 8/2007?)

Date Opened: (EX and TU) 3/2004

Estimated date for removal (TU) 6/2010

Palisades (OC: Household bank)

DOFD (EQ): 8/2003 (SOL = 8/2007?)

Date Opened (EX) 2/2007

Estimated date for removal (TU) 7/2010

NextCard

DOFD: (EQ): 12/2003 (SOL = 12/2007?)

Date Opened (EX and TU) 11/1999

Estimated date for removal (TU) 8/2009

Collect America (OC: CSGA LLC ???) I don’t recognize that unless it is a JDB

DOFD (EQ) 10/2001 (SOL= 10/2005?)

Date Opened (EX) 9/2007

Estimated date for removal: (TU) 9/2008

Bank of America (TU lists the same acct # as Fleet Credit Services, which was the OC)

DOFD (EQ): 5/2004 (SOL = 5/2008?)

Date Opened: (TU) 7/2000

Estimated date for removal: (TU) 3/2011

Crescent Recovery (OC: Metris Companies???) I don’t recognize that either, so assume it’s a JDB?

DOFD (EQ): 1/2004 (SOL= 1/2008???)

Date Opened: (EX) 7/2006

Estimated date for removal (TU) 12/2010

Midland Credit (OC: FNANB)

DOFD (EQ): 5/2004 (SOL= 5/2008)

Date Opened (EX) 6/2005

Estimated date for removal (TU)4/2011

TLs vary from closed at credit grantors request, closed at consumers request, collection acct, charged off bad debt. Any advise is so much appreciated. I just want to be sure to take the first step correctly. Thanks!

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Welcome!

1. Yes, you're quite lucky to be from Texas.

2. The 1-2 punch means that you dispute and DV at the same time. You don't need to wait for the green cards.

3. That Nextcard account will fall over without even a whimper of a fight. Nextcard went bankrupt and whats left of their records is in shambles. The CRAs know this. I did an online dispute through TU for mine and it was gone in two days.

4. Don't touch any TL that is approaching SOL. No DV letter, no disputes with the CRAs. Unless they're utterly incompetent, you will almost certainly be sued.

5. Kudos for getting the lingo down already. It took me almost three weeks. :D

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Generally when someone reages an account, they fudge the date of last activity (DOLA) or date of first major delinquency (DOFMD). It's probably just an error. Did you possibly have a credit card get stolen/lost? Most of the time, a replacement card's TL is tied to the old one, but sometimes that doesn't happen.

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Welcome to CIC my fellow Texan!

If you haven't already I would:

1 Dispute all negative accounts listed on your credit reports with the CRA's for accuracy and completeness that have past the four year SOL for Texas.

2 Wait for results of that investigation. (If they got deleted you are done!)

3 For accounts listed with the Original Creditor, if the investigation results confirmed/verified/updated the trade lines then write the OC and request an investigation.

4 For accounts listed with the Collection Agency, if the investigation results confirmed/verified/updated the trade lines then write the CA and request debt validation per the Texas Finance Code 392 Debt Collection.

You can also choose to submit your disputes online via the CRA's web sites or send your disputes via regular mail or certified mail return request requested. It all depends on how much time you have and money in my opinion. I am a believer in the system and I think it works when you put it to work. Hopefully they will all come off. It's really a crap shoot in my opinion, what worked for me, may not work for you and vice versa.

For me I sent all disputes/investigation requests via CMRRR at $5.50 a pop. I spent over $400 in CMRRR fees over the past year but well worth it in my opinion. And not all negative information just came out without a fight. I had to send several letters to different agencies (CA's, CRA's, FTC, TX AG, BBB, NCUA, etc) to get the results I got. So don't give up if it doesn't just fall off with one letter. Again, these are only for accounts that are past the four year SOL for Texas. Credit repair became an obsession for me. I worked on it morning, noon and night. You didn’t get into this situation overnight and you won’t get out of it overnight. So be prepared for battle…it will be long, hard and without withdrawal!

Also if you haven't already, read the link in my signature. Lots of good information there. If you have any questions please let me know and I'll do my best to help you out.

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Ditto what Fizzle said. The Texas Finance Code is your best weapon, very few CA's are familiar with it, including CA's that are in Texas. I generally did all my disputes with the CRA's online with fairly good results. Saved my money for the DV letters CMRR. Fizzle is right, it becomes an obsession. Persistence is the key. The people here can help with almost any situation you will be faced with.

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Ditto what Fizzle said. I generally did all my disputes with the CRA's online with fairly good results.

If I do online disputes, what reason is best to start with?

1. no knowledge of account?

2. inaccurate information?

3. balance incorrect?

4. account closed?

I also noticed with EQ that it takes me to CSC website. Should I register and dispute with this website online?

and I noticed on TU website, in the agreement for online disputes, it says you can only do ONE online dispute and any other dispute would have to be via mail. Am I reading this correctly?

I am thinking of starting with Nextcard, Collect America, LVNV and Palisades as those 4 according to DOFD are now past the SOL.

Any advice/wisdom from your own experiences are greatly appreciated!

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Start out "no knowledge of account, please remove"

Then if it is verified follow up looking for errors could be incorrect balance, status, dates...

Be sure to space out disputes 60 days apart so you don't get hit with a frivolous dispute letter to quickly.

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If I do online disputes, what reason is best to start with?

1. no knowledge of account?

2. inaccurate information?

3. balance incorrect?

4. account closed?

I also noticed with EQ that it takes me to CSC website. Should I register and dispute with this website online?

and I noticed on TU website, in the agreement for online disputes, it says you can only do ONE online dispute and any other dispute would have to be via mail. Am I reading this correctly?

I am thinking of starting with Nextcard, Collect America, LVNV and Palisades as those 4 according to DOFD are now past the SOL.

Any advice/wisdom from your own experiences are greatly appreciated!

Be prepared for a long drawn out battle with LVNV. They are one of the hardest to deal with. Don't be discouraged because it will take some patience and perserverance. Read this sticky here and do a search for LVNV:

http://debt-consolidation-credit-repair-service.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279246

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I also noticed with EQ that it takes me to CSC website. Should I register and dispute with this website online?

and I noticed on TU website, in the agreement for online disputes, it says you can only do ONE online dispute and any other dispute would have to be via mail. Am I reading this correctly?

Unfortunately CSC is who us Texans have to deal with for EQ, yes sign up and dispute online. Log in is only good for 24 hours, every time you dispute you will have to re-register. They are also the slowest in my opinion. Dispute as "not mine" for your first series of disputes.

With TU you can only do one online dispute at a time. Meaning that if you submit a dispute, you cannot dispute online again until this one is completed, generally 30 days. Keep in mind that you can dispute as many items as necessary in one single dispute. Same for EX.

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Ok, I have been searching and reading. I am in Texas, so I hear that is a good thing when it comes to credit repair. From what I understand is there is no “untimely” DV in Texas, and the CA must respond to a DV. I have 7 baddies on my credit reports, of these 7, 4 are past SOL and the other 3 SOL are up this year.

I had fairly good credit, then (as a single mom) decided to go back to school for a degree, tried my best to keep up my payments but life happens and wasn’t able to. I did over time receive dunning letters, but ignored them, thankfully I have never been sued. It has been a long time since I have received any dunning letters. Also I have no public records.

So now here I am, thankful for the helpful info here.

Here is the breakdown on my 7 baddies, and would like input as to what to do first? DV the Ca, do the 1-2 punch (which if I understand is DV the CA then after getting the green card back, send dispute letter to CRA).

Also, is having a "date opened" with same acct #s re-aging?:?:

LVNV (OC: Providian)

DOFD (EQ): 8/2003 (SOL = 8/2007?)

Date Opened: (EX and TU) 3/2004

Estimated date for removal (TU) 6/2010 2010-7=2003...DOFD =6/2003 So the DOFD appears incorrect on EQ That would make the SOL 6/2007.

Palisades (OC: Household bank)

DOFD (EQ): 8/2003 (SOL = 8/2007?)

Date Opened (EX) 2/2007

Estimated date for removal (TU) 7/2010 2010-7=2003...DOFD =7/2003 So the DOFD appears incorrect on EQ That would make the SOL 7/2007.

NextCard

DOFD: (EQ): 12/2003 (SOL = 12/2007?)

Date Opened (EX and TU) 11/1999

Estimated date for removal (TU) 8/2009 2009-7=2002...DOFD =8/2002 So the DOFD appears incorrect on EQ That would make the SOL 8/2006.

Collect America (OC: CSGA LLC ???) I don’t recognize that unless it is a JDB

DOFD (EQ) 10/2001 (SOL= 10/2005?)

Date Opened (EX) 9/2007

Estimated date for removal: (TU) 9/2008

Collect America usually collects for stupid subscriptions and usually fold with a not mine, who are you letter.

Bank of America (TU lists the same acct # as Fleet Credit Services, which was the OC)

DOFD (EQ): 5/2004 (SOL = 5/2008?)

Date Opened: (TU) 7/2000

Estimated date for removal: (TU) 3/2011

Fleet was bought by BoA. TU shows 3/2011 would make DOFD 3/2004 and SOL is in 2 months....leave this for later this summer after SOL has passed.

Crescent Recovery (OC: Metris Companies???) I don’t recognize that either, so assume it’s a JDB?

DOFD (EQ): 1/2004 (SOL= 1/2008???)

Date Opened: (EX) 7/2006

Estimated date for removal (TU) 12/2010

Midland Credit (OC: FNANB)

DOFD (EQ): 5/2004 (SOL= 5/2008)

Date Opened (EX) 6/2005

Estimated date for removal (TU)4/2011

These guys are jerks so you need to leave this until SOL has passed.

TLs vary from closed at credit grantors request, closed at consumers request, collection acct, charged off bad debt. Any advise is so much appreciated. I just want to be sure to take the first step correctly. Thanks!

Go after the older CAs first and dispute as the others have told you. Once those are history, dispute the TLs that matched those CAs.

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LVNV (OC: Providian)

DOFD (EQ): 8/2003 (SOL = 8/2007?)

Date Opened: (EX and TU) 3/2004

Estimated date for removal (TU) 6/2010 2010-7=2003...DOFD =6/2003 So the DOFD appears incorrect on EQ That would make the SOL 6/2007.

So which DOFD is the REAL DOFD? the EQ has listed or going by the Estimated date for removal on TU?

ok I did 3 online disputes with EX and TU:

LVNV, Nextcard and Palisades...just waiting game now.:roll:

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So which DOFD is the REAL DOFD? the EQ has listed or going by the Estimated date for removal on TU? QUOTE]

Like you, I'm new to all this. However, based on what I've read around here so far, after you dispute it with "Not Mine", if they come back verified, then I would dispute it saying the dates and/or amounts are wrong - you had no accounts with XXX company at that time. I would also send DV letters to the CAs at that time also stating the same thing. Make 'em do their homework on this stuff.

Just my thoughts. Any veterans of this stuff, please step in and correct me if I'm way off base on this.:)

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So which DOFD is the REAL DOFD? the EQ has listed or going by the Estimated date for removal on TU?

Either way the SOL is past. The discrepancy with the DOFD is something you may want to use later as leverage if you need to go the ITS route or even file a suit, but you would need a few more reporting violations to have any leverage whatsoever. The object is to rack up as many violations as possible before ITS or suing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

New Texan,

I am just to begin this battle. Recently divorced and left with all my ex-wifes debt (In my name). I tried to pay at approximately $750.00 a month in total on credit cards and found I was fighting a losing battle. As interest was eating it all up. What should I do. Try to settle one at a time. Or just let time go by? Help

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